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Maple Leaf

posted: 5/9/2004

by Ila McCallum

Printable Page

Category: Pieced

Level: Easy

Series: 9 Patch Sampler

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Description:
The Maple Leaf block is a 9-patch block with three rows of three squares each. Four of the squares are made up of 2 half square triangles. The stem on the stem block is machine appliquéd. This block uses the background fabric and 3 contrasting fabrics.

Finished Size: 12" x 12"

Fabric Requirements For Block:

If you are making the entire Block of the Month series, just cut the patches as shown below from the fabrics for the series. The fabric requirements for the series is in the Introduction to the Block of the Month.

If you are making a sample block or just one block, use these fabric measurements and then cut the patches as shown below. The measurements are generous.

NOTE: If you are using a one way fabric, such as the background fabric in the block with the light blue and mottled orange patches below, you may need a little more fabric.

TIP: Mark which fabrics you are planning to use for each portion of the quilt. For example, it is easy to forget that a certain fabric is planned for the sashing. However, be open to changing your mind. You may find that a different fabric makes an outstanding sashing and the one you had planned to use just does not work.

Fabric A: (1 patch) 6" X 6" Background fabric
NOTE: For this quilt, the background fabric is shown as the mottled green and yellow in the picture of the finished quilt above. This fabric will be used in every block in the Block of the Month series and the wide border.
Fabric B: (4 half square triangles made from 2 squares) 6" X 10" Background fabric
Fabric C: (1 patch) 6" X 6" Background fabric
Fabric D: (4 half square triangles made from 2 squares) 6" X 10" Contrast fabric 1
Fabric E: (3 squares) 6" X 15" Contrasting fabric 2
Fabric F: (1 piece) 3" X 8" Contrast fabric 3 (stem)

Cutting Instructions

Piece	Shape	#	Fabric	Instructions
A		1	Background	Cut one 4 ½" x 4 ½" square TIP: Be careful to cut accurately. If you are using a quilter’s ruler and rotary cutter, look at the marks on the ruler from above when placing the ruler on the fabric. Be sure the 4 ½" mark is on the edge of the fabric before you cut. Hold the ruler firmly with your hand but out of the way of the rotary cutter! We don't want any cut fingers.
B		4	Background	Cut two 4 7/8" x 4 7/8" squares; cut each in half diagonally *See TIP
C		1	Background	Cut one 4 ½" x 4 ½" square
D		4	Contrast 1	Cut two 4 7/8" x 4 7/8" squares; cut each in half diagonally * See TIP *TIP: I find it easier to cut my squares 5 inches rather than 4 7/8 inches. After the pieces are sewn together, I use a square quilting ruler (putting the 45 degree mark on the seam) and trim the square to exactly 4 ½ inches. I call this "super sizing".
E		3	Contrast 2	Cut three 4 ½" X 4 ½" squares
F		3	Contrast 3	Cut one 2" x 7" strip

Assembly (1/4" seam allowance throughout):

Instruction	Diagram
Step 1: Cut all pieces and lay them out in the same positions as in the finished block. Use the diagram above to help you lay out the pieces.
Step 2: Sew the half square triangles together to make the four squares for the points of the leaf. Be sure to use accurate scant ¼" seams. These seams are on the bias and are easily stretched. Be very careful not to stretch the seams.
Step 3: Stem patch: Turn under ¼” seams and press on the long sides of the strip. The strip will then be 1 ½" wide. Place the strip diagonally over the block and pin carefully. Sew the strip to the background by sewing close to the folded edges of the strip with a straight stitch. Trim the ends of the strip to match the corners of the square.
Step 4: Sew the three patches in Row 1 together. Place the two patches you are sewing with right sides together and edges matching. Be careful to sew the patches in the order shown on the diagram with the diagonal seam line in the corner patches in the correct position. Pin at right angles to the seam line. Do not sew over the pins but pull them out before the needle reaches them. TIP: Start sewing on a small scrap. Sew from the small scrap directly onto the patches you are sewing together, leaving one or two stitches between. When you have finished sewing the seam, sew back onto a scrap. Clip the threads between the patches and the scraps. The ends of your seams will be more even. This is called chain stitching and can be used between patches that you are seaming.
Step 5: Sew the three patches in Row 2 together.
Step 6: Sew the three patches in Row 3 together.
Step 7: Press the seams in the direction of the arrows in the drawing.
Step 8: Sew Row 1 to Row 2. Match the seams very carefully and pin on both sides of the matched seam. This will hold the seamlines from shifting and keep the fabric in the seam allowances from folding. Remember not to sew over the pins but rather remove them as you come to them.
Step 9: Sew Row 3 to Row 2.
Step 10: Press the seams. The direction you press them is not as important here as it was above because this will be sown to a sashing or border piece.
NOTE: Your block will measure 12 ½" x 12 ½". When all of the seams are sewn around the block in the finished quilt, the block will measure 12" x 12". It is important that your block measures 12 ½" x 12 ½" so that all of the blocks will fit correctly, when you put the entire quilt together. If your block does not measure the correct size, you can "block" it just as you would block a sweater. Draw the correct size on a piece of paper and pin the edges of the block so that it is on the line. Spray the fabric with water or a light spray starch and press it dry. Be very careful not to stretch the fabric by moving the iron back and forth. Instead, press the fabric by pressing and lifting the iron.